I realized that most of us judge food and desserts mainly by how much we like the taste, especially when we don’t really know how they are made.
Most of us cook, bake or have helped in the kitchen therefore have an idea of how restaurant kitchens or bakeries operate. But when it comes to gelato, I bet you have no idea how it really comes to life.
I get this question a lot in my classes: how can we really recognize a good artisanal gelato? So here is my personal guide to go beyond the usual stereotypes and truly understand a quality product:
Colors & Flavor: true artisans do not use colorants (or pre-made mixes & powders), therefore the colors and flavors are normally more natural, exactly like that specific fruit or ingredient should look & taste like. Keep in mind that banana pulp is white, not yellow, limes or lemons when juiced will give a white gelato, green apple is normally not a flashy green..and so on.
Shape: mounds of gelato are never a good sign. Gelato should never be above the cold line of the display case, if that happens it means is made with stabilizers, preservatives and fats that do melt at warmer temperatures (hydrogenated fats for example). If the gelato is over 2-3” taller than the pan, pick a different gelateria.
Palate: artisanal gelato must be made with good, natural fats (mainly from the dairies or other ingredients like chocolate and nuts), not other processed ones (like hydrogenated fats). A non artisanal product often “coats” your mouth and leaves you with a weird feeling, that is because the fats used are designed to melt at higher temperatures than your body.
Easy to digest: this sounds weird for gelato, but I can assure you I have had plenty or gelato that will just seat with me for hours. Again, a quality, artisanal product will be satisfying, with amazing flavor but also really easy to digest. This is because of the short ingredient list, the quality of every single ingredient and the process utilized to craft it.
Low sugar content: artisan gelato cannot be compared to ice-cream, or other american junk foods. The amount of fat and sugar is calculated in every of my recipes and… keep in mind: not all the type of sugars give the same amount of sweetness! This means your mouth might not feel it, but your body eventually will, and as it happens after drinking soda or a really sugary iced-tea you will just feel even more thirsty. If this happens, you know that gelato, or ice-cream was not good, no matter the taste!
Structure & creaminess: true artisanal gelato is made fresh daily, and never kept for more than 2-3 days. The mouthfeel should be extremely smooth, creamy, and without any lumps or ice crystals.
Serving temperature & consistency: I only have one display case, that can be set at only one temperature, therefore I have to calibrate 3 different products so that they can be scooped perfectly all at the same temperature: gelato, water based sorbetti & almond milk based vegan gelato. Some flavors or type of gelato tend to be harder or softer and it’s the artisan’s duty to make sure he/she can compensate for that. If your caramel is extremely soft and your pistachio (or other nut flavor, or chocolate or a fat rich flavor) a lot harder you’ll know they did not do a good job!
Sugary toppings or other stuff mixed in: this is just my personal opinion, but gelato is meant to be a more refined, gourmet experience. Mixing all sort of sugary toppings or other pieces of candies in the gelato will normally just create a mishmosh of flavors. I prefer clean, distinctive flavors with mix-ins or toppings that do not overpower the main flavor but rather complement it (ricotta & fig, goat cheese & raspberry, chocolate with some home made chocolate cake crumbles..). Let’s not junk it up too much: this is a good indicator of the overall care they put (or not) in a quality product.
These are some of the most important things I look at when evaluating a good artisan gelato. Remember, not all the gelato is created equal. If you have to pay a premium (even crappy gelato is more expensive than ice-cream!!) at least pay that for something that is worth it!
Ciao amici,
Vincenzo